Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children are reluctant to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
